Workbenches and Basements

So after looking around a bit, I've come to the conclusion that work benches are not made for scale modelers   Most work benches come in two categories: 1.) benches designed to stand at and use hand tools like saws or wrenches and 2.) benches designed to stand at and use a power tool like a router, drill press, or lathe.  Neither of these cases work that well for scale modeling.

On top of that, there isn't the same need to stand when doing scale modeling activities as there would be for using a hand saw for example.  As such, standing isn't required and probably isn't that preferable not to mention that many workbenches have shelves under them making it difficult to sit at.

The problem is that workbenches are designed to be stood at.  Pieces of furniture that are designed to be sat at are typically in a different category, "tables".  Well what if a scale modeler wants a work bench, one with a peg board and such, but to be seated at?  It seems as though the solution to that problem falls squarely upon the modeler.

And so it is that I've begun to design a work bench for myself, for scale modeling.  The key ingredient seems to be the work bench top; for that decision will affect many others.  It's also important as it's likely the single most expensive material in the whole unit.

The top can either be built by oneself or purchased pre-fabricated.

Building the Top

On the more exotic end for most model railroaders, building the work bench top amounts to using a jointer to prepare dimensional lumber which is then laminated together to form a thick and durable piece of wood.  I suspect many modelers don't have such a tool, myself included.

A lesser form of making the top on one's own would be to use a combination of plywood, masonite, or MDF to laminate together a suitable working surface with perhaps some combination of 3/4" plywood on the bottom and 1/8" masonite on the top giving a very sturdy but smooth work bench top.  3/4" plywood isn't cheap, running about $40 for a 4x8 sheet and with the masonite this option is probably looking to cost around $50-60 all said and done.

Pre-Fabricated Tops

Surprisingly, most of the options for pre-fabricated tops are cheaper than building it yourself.

One easily available option that's surprisingly cheap is interior doors.  A 24" x 80" hollow core door can be bought at Home Depot for $21.  I actually first learned about the interior door work bench top from my father.  At first pass it seems like a bad idea as the door itself is hollow with only carboard to support it.  The advantage of the door however is that T-pins can be pressed into it.  This approach means that one can use making tape to fasten plans to the workbench surface, then use T-pins to construct "just in time" jigs around the model as needed.  This works rather well for two dimensional wooden models.

Ikea provides another source of possibilities.  Ikea sells desk tops by themselves ranging from $25 for the small and basic to $125 for stainless steel.  The bonus here however would be the discount section.  Most ikea stores have an area where they sell returned or damaged items for 50% off and it would probably be trivial to find a suitable workbench top in their discount section at a bargain price.

Home Depot again provides more options from 24" width melamine shelves to discount counter tops.

Which

Deciding on which one is right depends on what the work bench will be used for.  Will there be heavy tools sitting on it (probably not for scale modeling)?  Will there be any banging or hammering?  Are spills expected, will "wet" things be used on it, and will the ability to wipe up afterwards be important factors?  How much surface area is needed?

Other Factors

Aside from the workbench top, there are two other factors to consider.  How tall should it be?  This is in many ways the relationship between you seated and the height that is preferred to work at.  Most desks are around 30" tall and most counters are 36" tall.

Secondly, what needs to be at the back of the workbench.  Is facing the wall okay, or should there be some type of hutch attached?

Now To the Basement

Well, with all that discussion of workbenches now behind us, my task was to locate a suitable area for a workshop and build a workbench there.  I identified an otherwise cluttered and ignored corner of the basement...

Obviously the first step was to address all the stuff that was in my future workshop.  And after a few hours of work that area then became...

Now one thing I wanted to address was to as much as possible (and for as little as money as possible) make it feel like I wasn't sitting in the basement.  The problem is, the workshop area is shared with the utilities...

I have an idea for this which I'll reveal later, but I made up a list of what I'd like to go into my workshop, then split it up into 3 phases.

Phase one, which I'd like to finish before the end of the year, contains the following pieces:

• Move the track lighting from where it used to be on the railroad over to the workshop (I suspect I'll use something else should I build a layout in the place of where the track lighting was).
• Build at least 1 workbench
• Install blinds on the window looking into the workshop
• Do something about the utilities

I'm about half done now with my list for phase 1, and here's what it's shaping up to be. The lights are in and I'm 85% done with the workbench.  I still plan for it to have some small features, a shelf up top and a place to put tools while working.

The workbench is a rather simple design which I did myself on the computer.  The only somewhat complex part is rabbit cuts on the legs and dado's for the cross bar in the back.

As you can see I selected the door for my work bench top.  Since it's for scale modeling it seemed like an inexpensive and easy route.

The legs are made from 2x4's and the rest of the table portion is 2x3's.  There is a frame behind the pegboard made from 1x2's and I'll probably use a 1x6 for the shelf across the top.